Making Choices

When installing a traditional hardwood (3/4" thick, jobsite finished) floor there are a few basic facts consumers should know before making a final decision on which species of hardwood to use and the type and sheen of finish.  We're focusing on the traditional Solid Wood floor because that is our primary business and we consider it to be the best overall value.  For more detailed information on Solid Wood floors, please visit the consumer section of the National Wood Flooring Association website.

Design Considerations
Species Selection
Finish Types
Finish Sheens


Design Considerations

Nothing adds more value to your home than a Solid Wood floor.  Its warmth, beauty and durability make it a popular choice for home owners, builders, interior designers and architects alike.  There are numerous design objectives that can be achieved through the use of hardwood.

Mixing species, installing decorative medallions and borders, choosing wider planks and laying planks diagonally can all help achieve dramatic, personalized designs.  An almost limitless number of staining options can also add to the desired outcome.  A well thought-out, unique design creates a type of functional art; a well-designed floor is usable, it's unique to the customer and it will be beautiful!  With the proper planning, you can have a floor like no one else!

Species Selection Top of Page

Wood Grades

The terms below are used in the grading system used by the National Wood Flooring Association.

The appearance of wood determines its "grade."  All grades are equally strong and serviceable, but each affords you a different look.

Clear

Clear wood is free of significant defects, though it may have a few minor imperfections.

Select

Select wood is almost clear, but contains some natural characteristics such as knots and color variations.

Common

Common wood (No. 1 and No. 2) has more natural characteristics, such as knots and color variations, than either clear or select grades and often is chosen because of these natural features.

No. 1 Common has a variegated appearance, light and dark colors, knots, flags and wormholes.

No 2 Common is rustic in appearance and emphasizes all the characteristics of the species. 

First

First grade wood has the best appearance, natural color variations and limited character marks.

Second

Second grade wood is variegated in appearance, with varying wood characteristics of the species present.

Third

Third grade wood is rustic in appearance, allowing all wood characteristics of the species to be present.

Wood CutsTop of Page

Wood can be cut at the sawmill in different ways, producing different characteristics.  The angle at which a board is cut determines how the finished product looks. Wood flooring is either plainsawn, quartersawn or riftsawn.

Plainsawn

Plainsawn is the most common cut.  The board contains more variation than the other two cuts because grain patterns resulting from the growth rings are more obvious.

Quartersawn

Quartersawing produces less board feet per log than plainsawing and is therefore more expensive.  Quartersawn wood twists and cups less and wears more evenly.

Riftsawn

Riftsawn is similar to quartersawing, but the cut is made at a slightly different angle.

Hardness of Wood  Top of Page

Knowing the hardness of a particular wood can help determine whether it meets your needs or not.  Harder woods don't stain as well, but they are more durable.  Softer woods take stain just fine, but they can't stand up to lots of traffic and abuse.  Knowing what you want the wood to do is therefore very important.

To make comparisons of wood hardness a little easier, the Janka Hardness Scale was developed.  The Janka (or side) hardness test measures the force required to embed a .444 inch steel ball to half its diameter in wood. The Janka harness number is a good indicator on how well a particular floor will dent or wear. These Janka Hardness numbers can also be a good indicator for installers as to how difficult it will be to cut or nail the wood.

The higher the number, the harder the wood.  Below is a list of many popular hardwoods and their respective hardness numbers.

 

Species	Hardness
Brazilian Walnut, Ipe, Lapacho	3680
Bolivian Cherry	3650
Brazilian Teak, Cumaru	3540
Ebony	3220
Brazilian Rosewood / Tamarinde	3000
Brazilian Cherry / Jatoba	2350
Mesquite	2345
Santos Mahogany	2200
Merbau	1925
Purple Heart	1860
Goncalo Alves / Tigerwood	1850
Hickory / Pecan	1820
African Padauk	1725
Patens	1691
Timbergrass Bamboo	1642
Junker's Beech	1630
Wenge, Red Pine	1630
Zebrawood	1575
Brazilian Maple	1500
Hard Maple	1450
Natural Bamboo	1380
Australian Cypress	1375
White Oak	1360
Vintage Oak	1325
White Ash	1320
American Beech	1300
Northern Red Oak	1290
Yellow Birch	1260
Heart Pine	1225
Teak	1000
Southern Yellow Pine	690
White Pine	420
Basswood	410
Eastern White Pine	380

Beautiful Hardwood Options

The list above is an example of some of the native and exotic species available for wood floors.  Just Around The Corner purchases hardwoods from around the world and can provide the species that works for your particular situation.   We'll work closely with you in making the proper species selection.

Finish Types  Top of Page

There are basically five types of finishes being used today.  Just Around The Corner primarily uses the first option, oil-based urethane, because of the good balance of features it offers.  However, if the job demands it, we can use other Finish Types.

1. Oil-Based Urethane
2. Water-Based Urethane
3. Moisture-Cured Urethane
4. Conversion Varnish
5. Penetrating Stain and Wax

Oil-Based Urethane

Oil-based urethane has excellent durability; a rich, warm, golden color as it ages; and a moderate to strong odor as it is being applied.  It typically takes about 24 hours to dry.

Water-Based Urethane

Water-based urethane stays relatively clear during its lifetime, drys faster than oil-based urethane and has a less offensive odor.  It also costs more than oil-based urethanes and takes about 8 hours to dry.

We offer the only Aluminum Oxide urethane for job-site finishes that comes with a 15 year manufacturer warranty.  Call today and ask about the high quality finishes we provide to make your life easier.

Moisture-Cured Urethane

Moisture-cured urethane has a very strong and potentially toxic odor, superior durability, quick drying time and emits highly combustible vapors.  This product should only be applied by a flooring professional.

Conversion Varnish

Conversion varnish has up to a slight amber over time, is very durable and has a very strong odor during application.  Again, it should only be applied by a flooring professional.

Penetrating Stain and Wax

Penetrating stain and wax is pretty much obsolete.  This product works into the wood and dries hard.  It does not handle moisture well and requires significant maintenance. 

Finish Sheens Top of Page

There are three types of sheen available; satin, semi-gloss and gloss.  Each of these sheens may not be available in all Finish Types.  All three sheens are available in the oil-based urethanes.

The professionals at Just Around The Corner ask customers to pick the stain color from samples applied to their freshly sanded floor, unless the decision was previously made.  Seeing stain colors in the environment in which they will exist is the only way to know which stain will look the best.  You can't make these decisions from showrooom samples.

The desired look will drive which type of sheen the customer selects.  Satins hide scratches more readily and will give the floor a flat finish, with little light reflecting off the floor.  A gloss finish will look more glassy and will show scratches and dents more readily.  A gloss sheen is slightly more durable than a satin sheen.

And, of course, a semi-gloss sheen falls somewhere in the middle of satin and gloss.  If you desire some light reflection, but not too much, semi-gloss is the way to go.